Description
Barbarian Days is William Finnegan’s memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a distinguished writer and war reporter. Barbarian Days takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds, some of them right under our noses—off the coasts of New York and San Francisco. It immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships forged in challenging waves. Finnegan shares stories of life in a whites-only gang in a tough school in Honolulu. He shows us a world turned upside down for kids and adults alike by the social upheavals of the 1960s. He details the intricacies of famous waves and his own apprenticeships to them. Youthful folly—he drops LSD while riding huge Honolua Bay, on Maui—is served up with rueful humor. As Finnegan’s travels take him ever farther afield, he discovers the picturesque simplicity of a Samoan fishing village, dissects the sexual politics of Tongan interactions with Americans and Japanese, and navigates the Indonesian black market while nearly succumbing to malaria. Throughout, he surfs, carrying readers with him on rides of harrowing, unprecedented lucidity. Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, an intellectual autobiography, a social history, a literary road movie, and an extraordinary exploration of the gradual mastering of an exacting, little-understood art.
Details
Experience the adrenaline and the freedom of riding the waves like never before with Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life. This captivating memoir takes you on a thrilling journey through the world of surfing, immersing you in the exhilarating waves and vibrant surf culture. Whether you're a seasoned surfer seeking inspiration or an adventurous soul looking to dive into a new passion, this book will ignite your passion for the ocean and leave you craving your next wave. Dive in and let the waves carry you towards an unforgettable surfing adventure.
Unleash your inner adventurer and embark on a soul-stirring exploration of the surfing world with Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life. From the shimmering blue waters of Hawaii to the majestic breaks of Africa, this memoir dives deep into the heart of the surf subculture. Immerse yourself in the vibrant descriptions that transport you to the thrilling moments of catching the perfect wave. Marked by candid storytelling and breathtaking prose, this book encapsulates the raw spirit of surfing and invites you to experience the passion of this captivating sport.
Escape the ordinary and discover the ethereal beauty of riding the waves with Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life. This remarkable memoir is not just for surf enthusiasts – it's for anyone who craves adventure and seeks the extraordinary. Follow William Finnegan as he recounts his personal journey, from his humble beginnings as a young surfer to becoming a renowned writer. Immerse yourself in the gripping tales of his lifelong quest for the ultimate wave, and let the magic of his words transport you to the heart-pounding excitement of the surfing world. Experience the thrill of the ocean and embrace the spirit of endless possibilities as you turn the pages of this mesmerizing book.
Dive into the world of surfing like never before with Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life. Let this captivating memoir take you on an unforgettable ride, exploring the highs and lows of a surfer's life. Through masterful storytelling, William Finnegan invites you to experience the profound connection between man and wave. Share in the triumphs, the failures, and the soul-stirring moments that define the surfing experience. Whether you dream of hanging ten or simply crave the excitement of living life on the edge, this book is your ticket to immersing yourself in the intoxicating world of surfing. Start your adventure today and let the waves guide you towards an extraordinary journey.
Are you ready to embark on a voyage that will leave you breathless? Experience the invigorating rush of surfing with Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life. This enthralling memoir captures the essence of the surfing world, transporting you to far-off shores and immersing you in the incredible tales of adventure and passion. Let William Finnegan's vivid storytelling fill your senses as you explore the connection between mind, body, and the untamed power of the ocean. Make waves in your own life and let the magic of Barbarian Days carry you towards your next adventure - one that you'll never forget.
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